Rabbit Colors

             Rabbits can come in many colors. This depends on the genes it receives from the parents. There are five different genes that make up the rabbit's color. This, again, depends on the parents. Every rabbit has two genes from each of the gene sets - A-agouti, B-black/brown, C- color saturation, D- dilution of color, and E- extension of color. Other sets include-V- Vienna (which is the blue-eyed white gene), En-which produces broken patterns, and Du, which can give the Dutch color pattern. When the sire is bred he will pass on one of the two genes from the gene set, and the dam will pass on one of the two genes from the gene set, giving the offspring two genes from each gene set. certain genes have more dominance. For example, in Agouti, the three possible genes are A, at, and a. A is the more dominant and may be seen more in the offspring(if given). For example, the A gene is the typical wild rabbit color. Rabbits that receive this gene have white bellies as well as white eye circles. The hairs on a rabbit possessing the A gene have individual color bands, and if you  blow on the rabbit you will see circular bands of color. The at gene is basically known as the tan pattern. In order for this to show the second gene must be an a or at. If the rabbit carries the A gene the tan will not show, however, the rabbit still carries it. The at gene has the same overall pattern as Agouti (the belly and eye circles as well as the underside of the tail will be white, but the individual hairs will not have color bands and will be one consecutive color). The a gene is also known as the self gene. Because it is the least dominant gene there must be two a gene for it to show. This gene will result in a single color pattern and no color rings on individual hairs. There are two genes in the black/brown gene (gene B). B(black) , which is the more dominant, and b, which is chocolate. Colors in the B set include black, lilac, sable point, tort, and chinchilla. the b set can include chocolate, lilac, and lynx. Because there are only two genes in this set, to get the chocolate color to show you will need to get two b genes. gene C ( color saturation) is more complex. Dominant and recessive genes as well as co-dominant and slight-dominance genes work to make a rabbit's color. There is even a gene affected by temperature! There are five genes in this gene set: C, cchd, cchl, ch, and c. These genes determined how full the color is in your rabbit. Most dominant gene in this set is C, where your rabbit shows full color. The c gene, or the most recessive, will show a complete complete drain of color (albino). The c gene produces a REW, or ruby-eyed white, not a BEW, or blue-eyed white. The gene vienna produces a blue-eyed white. The cchd gene and cchl gene have co-dominance. The cchd gene is known as the chinchilla gene, or chinchilla dark.  This gene allows some but not all the pigment in your rabbit. If your rabbit is an agouti, white color bands will appear in between darker color bands. This gene will also produce rabbits with blue eyes. The cchl gene is known as the sable gene, or chinchilla dark. This gene has incomplete dominance. When you have two sale genes such as cchd cchl you get more of a darker, sepia color called seal. Seal color is almost black, Like cchd, this gene removes yellow from the hair shaft as well as some darker pigmentation, leaving the rabbit with a more shaded look. This gene leaves the eye color dark, unlike the chinchilla dark gene(cchd). The ch gene is known as the himi gene. Rabbits showing this are called pointed white, and are white except for the muzzle, ears, and feet. When it is colder, the color can be "turned back on", or in other words, the rabbit can become darker in the winter to stay warmer. The c gene is known as the albino gene and because of its properties, will wash out what ever the A, B, D, and E genes have to offer. There are only two genes in set D (Dilution of color). D which is full strength color, and d which is diluted color. The only way for a rabbit to have diluted color is if the rabbit has two d genes. The dilute will weaken the color in full-colored rabbits. The E gene (extension of color) determines if the hair stretches to the end of the hair sift or not. The non-extended hair shaft can produce colors such as black tortoise shell. The rabbit all appear shaded as shorter hairs (along places such as the muzzle and belly) aren't long enough to show the color change. There are four genes in this set: E-the full extension of color, ES-extension of a dark color, e- extension of a light color, and ej. ES genes can produce steel colors, while the ej gene can produce harlequin colors. And finally, the EN (English spotting) gene set. There are two genes in this set: En and en.

 Enen will cause normal spotting as in a broken pattern. EnEn will cause the rabbit to mainly have spotting only on the head area. This resulting color is known as a Charlie. The set even will result in a normally- colored rabbit.

                                                                   Rabbit Color List

Agouti: bands of color occur on each hair - the colors of these bands vary depending on the type of agouti coloration.
Black: dark black.
Black otter: black body with lighter underside, hair may be orange tinted at the border of the black and lighter color.
Blue: medium or slate blue.
Blue otter: blue coat with fawn tipped guard hairs, fawn areas.
Blue steel: blue with silver or tan "ticking" (see below)
Blue tortoiseshell: blue and beige.
Broken: white with any color patches or spots, with nose markings, colored ears, and eye circles.
Brown-gray agouti: blue at base, then medium tan, charcoal, and tan at tip.
Californian: white body with black on nose, ears, tail, feet.
Castor: brown over top, slate blue undercoat, with orange or red in between.
Chinchilla: slate or black blended with pearl, black tipped guard hairs.
Cinnamon: rust or reddish-brown color.
Chocolate: deep dark brown.
Chocolate agouti: bands of tan and chocolate with a chestnut tip.
Chocolate chinchilla: chocolate and pearl with chocolate tipped guard hairs.
Chocolate steel: chocolate with tan or silver ticking.
Chocolate tortoiseshell: creamy chocolate with fawn.
Copper agouti: bands of red/orange and dark slate with red at tip, ticked with black tipped guard hairs.
Cream: pinkish beige to almond.
Fawn: straw color.
Frosted pearl: pearl with black, blue, chocolate or lilac shading.
Gray: three different colors of hair: black, black with tan tip, and black with tan band, and slate undercolor.
Light gray: agouti with slate blue at base, off white in middle, and light gray at tip, with black tipped guard hairs.
Lilac: pinkish pale gray
Lilac chinchilla: lilac and pearl ticked with lilac tipped guard hairs.
Lilac steel: lilac with tan or silver ticking.
Lilac tortoiseshell: lilac and beige.
Opal agouti: slate blue at base of hair, then gold, then blue tip.
Orange: light to bright orange.
Pearl: light creamy gray.
Pointed white: white with black, blue, chocolate or lilac colored nose, ears, feet, tail (like a Himalayan coloring).
Red: rich brown red color.
Sable: dark grayish brown.
Sable marten: siamese sable coloring with silver tipped guard hairs.
Sable point: cream body and sable on nose, ears, feet and tail.
Sandy: reddish tan.
Seal: dark (almost black) sable.
Self group: solid color in black, blue, lilac, blue eyed white, and ruby eyed white.
Shaded group: color transitions from dark to light (e.g. frosted pearl, sable, sable point, siamese sable, seal, tortoise).
Silver or silver fox: silver with white or white tipped hairs.
Silver Marten: black, blue, chocolate or lilac with silver white markings and silver tipped guard hairs.
Tan Pattern: marks (not necessarily tan) on nostril, eye circles, jowls, inside ears, belly, inside led, underside of tail.
Groups included marten and otter colorations.
Ticking: solid or tipped guard hairs different than the main coat color interspersed throughout the coat.
Tortoise: orange with black, blue, chocolate or lilac.
Tortoiseshell: orange or dark fawn and black.
Tri-colored: white with any of black and orange, lavender blue and fawn, chocolate and orange, gray and fawn.

Sources: "Three Ladies Rabbitry" and "Ask.com"

Mini Lop Rabbits

Here is a great video on mini lop care.

                                             Mini lops are very similar to the holland lop, but they
                                              are larger and less compact.


                                                                       Summary
                          Mini lops are a small rabbit in the lop-eared family. Their floppy ears will require extra maintenance, just like the holland lop. They are actually very similar to the holland lop- they are just less compact. Mini lops will generally get from five to seven pounds ( a little bigger than holland lops) and again, males tend to get bigger than females. These rabbits are also prone to obesity, so feeding the right food and exercising them is a must.  These rabbits are popular amongst families due to their size and content personalities. I enjoy this kind of rabbit and know they can make great companions.
                                                             Mini Lop or Holland Lop?
                        For some it can be quite difficult to tell if their rabbit is a mini lop or a holland lop. These rabbits can be quite similar but not impossible to identify. First of all, make sure you see your rabbits parents before you get it. Many breeders will say that your rabbit is a certain breed, when it is really just a mix of something else. If you have a mini lop he/she will get slightly bigger than a holland lop, maybe by a pound or two. Your mini lop will not be as compact as a holland lop. The face won't be as pushed in, the ears will be a little longer ( a little farther below the chin ), and the body and legs won't be as "muscular" looking. When you have a mini and a holland side by side it is actually not that hard to tell the breeds apart.
                                                            Feeding and Weight
                       Mini lops, just like holland lops, are prone to obesity. A steady diet of timothy hay based pellets and timothy hay will help to keep your rabbit in shape. Too many treats or food with treats in it (like dried fruit, etc. )will definitely lead to obesity, which will ultimately lead to death. Plenty of exercise is also necessary to keep your rabbit healthy ( at least three hours a day). It does not have to be vigorous, just letting him/her run around would be fine. A healthy mini lop should weigh between five and seven  pounds
                                                           Structure
                     The mini lop has a longer snout than a holland lop, but not as long as other rabbits. A mini's ears do not hang straight down from its head - they stick out a little. The ears end about mid- body (almost touching the ground). The body and legs are not as compact as a holland's ( most things are a little longer), although they are in the same size range.

                  I have experience with these rabbits and know they can make wonderful companions.

Holland Lop Rabbits

                                               The holland lop is basically a compact version
                                                of the  mini lop.
                                                                          Summary
           The holland lop is part of the lop-eared family. Their ears may not be flopped at first, but they should be flopped between six to nine weeks.  Their floppy ears require extra maintenance. You should check them daily to see if there is any wax build up or if there is any debris being picked up while your rabbit walks. These rabbits are very similar to the mini lop, another rabbit in the lop-eared family which I will also post about. Holland lops are basically a compact version of the mini lop. Hollands should grow from five to six pounds and males are generally bigger than the females. Holland lops and mini lops are both kinds of rabbits that are prone to obesity, so feeding your holland the right kind of food is a must. These rabbits are generally friendly and are popular amongst families.
                                                                      Ear Maintenance
       Due to their floppy ears, holland lops require much ear maintenance. Like  I said, you need to check for wax build up. This can be irritating to your rabbit and cause infection. As your rabbit walks it can pick up debris from the ground with its ears. This can also lead to infection and harm your lop. Check for cuts and clean the ears daily. Animals with floppy ears are also a target for ear mites, which cleaning will prevent.
                                                                   Feeding and Weight
      Holland lops are prone to obesity, so you need to feed them the right food. Obesity will ultimately lead to death if serious. A steady diet of timothy hay and timothy hay-based pellets is a start to keeping your rabbit a healthy weight. If you cannot provide at least three hours of exercise ( does not have to be vigorous, perhaps just letting it run around your room) make sure you have a large cage, because holland lops will get obese if they are not exercised enough. If you follow these steps, your holland should remain in shape ( around five to six pounds). If your rabbit is having weight problems you may want to take it to a veterinarian, who can recommend a special diet.
                                                                        Structure
     Like I said, a holland lop is basically a compact version of the mini lop. Hollands have compact, muscular bodies.  This breed should have a pushed in, compact face. The ears should not fall straight from the head, they should stick out a little. They should just end below the jaw line. Their necks should be short, and their bodies should be round and compact with thick, muscular legs.


     Hollands make very nice pets ( these are the kind I own, along with mini lops) and are one of the most popular breeds of rabbits for families.

Safe Fruits and Vegetables

Many plants consist of a naturally occurring chemical called alkaloids which are mild toxins used to protect themselves in the wild. The most commonly talked about with rabbits is oxalic acid which is harmless to humans and animals when consumed in small amounts. The amount of oxalic acid in a plant can vary due to the soil it grows in, its age, and the time of year. If your bunny has too much oxalic acid its kidneys can become damaged. These foods do not need to be cut completely from your bunny's diet, but they do need to be rationed, so mix it up!

Some safe vegetables (lower in oxalic acid) include:
Arugula
Carrots
Cucumber leaves
Endive
Frisee Lettuce
Kale
Romaine Lettuce
Zucchini

Some safe vegetables (higher in oxalic acid and should be rationed) include:
Parsley
Spinach

Vegetables shouldn't be given in great amounts. A six pound bunny should only eat from one and a half to two cups of vegetables a day. It is unhealthy for a rabbit to eat a lot of fruit, too. I recommend only one to two teaspoons a day at the most (depending on the size of your rabbit).

Some safe fruits include:
Apples (without the seeds)
Peaches
Bananas
Pears
Plums
Kiwis
Blueberries
Honey Dew Melons
Apricots

Rabbits should be introduced to vegetables and fruits around four months of age. When introducing new vegetables to your rabbit only give a little amount. Wait and see if this upsets your rabbit. If you see watery stool or sludge/ blood in urine stop feeding this to your rabbit and contact the veterinarian. If the urine is colored, it may be due to the pigment in the vegetables and is completely fine, if not normal. Not all rabbits are comfortable with certain vegetables. You need to design your rabbit's diet around its individual health issues.

If you would like more information on what fruits and vegetables your rabbit can eat, click here for a video.

Litter Box Training

When litter box training your rabbit you need to make sure you have the right kind of litter box.  As I mentioned in my previous article this depends on the size, kind, and sometimes age of your rabbit. For litter box training I recommend corner litter boxes. Well, once you have the litter box, you should put it in the corner the rabbit is mostly going to the bathroom in. This will encourage the rabbit to go in the litter box. In one corner of the litter box you should put some hay. This will also encourage the rabbit to use the letterbox, as it will eat the hay. If the rabbit is spending time in the litter box, it is bound to go to the bathroom. Eventually your rabbit will learn to follow the smell. Make sure to change the hay daily. If you see any loose droppings you should scoop those up and put them in the litter box. You should also take some of the bedding the rabbit has peed in and place it in the litter box. The rabbit will follow the scent, again,  and should learn to go in it. Your rabbit may not learn this at first, as mine did, it may take a week or two. You have to be patient. If your rabbit does not learn for a while, it is not your fault. My rabbits' mothers were litter box trained, which allowed her children to pick up on her habits. Keep in mind that your rabbit will still leave a few loose droppings in places after it is trained, but it will continue to urinate in the litter box.

Health Exam

It is good to go see a veterinarian about every six months. This is a good time for you to ask any questions about your rabbit's behavior, housing, etc.When you take your rabbit to the veterinarian for a physical you will be asked some questions.  It is good to prepare in advance, so here is a list of some questions the vet might ask:
- How long have you had your rabbit?
- How old is he/ she?
- Is your rabbit spayed/neutered?
-Does your rabbit live inside or outside?
- How much are you able to exercise your rabbit?
-(If there is a problem) When did you first notice it?
- Does your rabbit appear uncomfortable or in any kind of pain?
- What ( if anything) have you done to treat the problem?
-When did he/ she last eat or drink?
- Have there been any changes in diet, environment, etc?
-Does your rabbit have normal stool ( not constipation or diarrhea) ?
- Do you have any other animals at home?  How many and what kind? Are their problems similar to your rabbit's?
- What do you feed your rabbit ( including treats) ?
-What is your rabbit housed in and with how many?
-Has your rabbit been exposed to sick pets or chemicals?
- Where did you obtain your rabbit?
-(If your rabbit is female) Is your rabbit pregnant or when she produce her last litter?
- Add any other findings.

For information on giving your bunny your own health exam, click here.

Source: "Rabbits" in the Popular Critters Series

Bunny Body Language

     Bunnies cannot talk so they express how they feel through actions. For example, if a bunny is upset, sad, or there is something wrong, it cannot speak to you. Instead, your bunny may be lethargic or cower away from you. I cannot even begin to express how important it is to watch your rabbit for changes in behavior.
       Mabel, my first rabbit, died when she was eight weeks old. I didn't know how a rabbit was supposed to act at the time, so I didn't realize there was something wrong with her when she hid from me and would not let me pick her up. I thought she was just adjusting to her new and unusual home. When she began to grind her teeth, which is a sign the rabbit is in pain (of course I didn't know this at the time) I still didn't think there was anything wrong. I began to suspect there was a problem when I realized she wasn't eating. This is not good as it can be a sign of a pain in places such as the stomach or intestines. She was not pooping at all, so I thought she might have been constipated. Constipation can be deadly in a rabbit if left because the poisonous gas build-up in the intestines can affect the rest of the  body and ultimately lead to death. We decided to take her to the veterinarian in the morning but when we woke up she had already died. It turns out she had had a hole in her heart: a birth defect. You should always listen to your rabbit's body language and if you see any drastic changes, like I did, call your vet immediately.
       As a prey species rabbits will try to hide their illnesses, so it will not always be easy to tell if your rabbit has an illness. In order to ensure that your rabbit is healthy, it is a good idea to examine your bunny daily. Watch him while he eats, check the litter box/cage for average amounts of poop, and let your bunny run around. You know you bunny best, so only you can decide what is normal.
To list, the main things to watch out for are:

Tooth Grinding: Loud tooth grinding is a sign that a rabbit is in pain. Quieter tooth grinding is usually normal for a relaxed and happy bunny.

Wet Chin/ Drooling: This can be a sign of tooth problems in rabbits. Aside from the drooling, you may notice that your rabbit is unable to eat hard foods such as large vegetables. This should not happen if your rabbit is given a steady supply of chew toys, but if it does, contact your vet as you may need to schedule trimmings.

Ear Temperature: Rabbits ears are what regulate their body temperature. If you notice that your bunny's ears are extremely cold or very warm, this could indicate a change in body temperature/fever. If your bunny experiences this with other symptoms, contact your vet.

Labored Breathing, Runny Eyes Nose, Sneezing: These factors together could indicate allergies. Labored breathing could indicate some kind of respiratory infection (possibly from the type of bedding you are using). The runny eyes may be caused by blocked tear ducts. Contact your vet about all of these problems.

Head Tilt/ Loss of Balance: This can be caused by an inner ear infection known as wry neck. It is important to catch this early on so that it can be treated properly.

Lethargy/ Loss of Appetite: Once in a while every rabbit has an off day, but if your rabbit will not eat or participate in usual activities, you should contact your vet. However, only you know your rabbit, and only you can decide what is abnormal.

Fecal Matter: Your rabbit should be using his litter box regularly. The feces left in it should be round and normally colored. Abnormally shaped, colored, and amounts of feces can indicate an illness. If any blood is excreted by your rabbit, call your vet immediately. This could be a sign of something less serious, but it can also be a sign of cancer.

   Rabbits can use body language to express emotion:
  Angry/ Scared: Among other actions is thumping.  This is when a rabbit hits the ground with its hind legs. This usually means "Get away from me!", "Stop doing that," or "Leave me alone." Thumping can be a sign that your rabbit is afraid or angry. You can also look towards your rabbits ears if you think they are afraid. They will be pinned back, but not in a completely straight manner. If your bunny is extremely scared or in extreme pain he may scream.
    Happy/ Relaxed:  Rabbits will also jump in the air and kick there feet together. Informally, it is called a "binky." This is a sign of a very happy rabbit. My bunny Charlotte loves doing this all the time when she is let out of her cage. Other than binkies, a happy and relaxed rabbit should not have their ears pinned back, but should have them in a normal upright position. Happy rabbits will also wiggle their noses.
     Territorial: Territorial behavior can be demonstrated by rubbing of the chin.
     Curious: A curious rabbit will look around intently and may sometimes stand on his hind legs.
     I know this sounds cheesy, but honestly listen to your rabbit. You are in charge of taking care of him. Only you can decide what is normal and abnormal as far as behavior because each bun is an individual. Your bunny is always talking to you. Are you listening?

For more information, click here to watch a video on bunny body language.
Source(es): House Rabbit Society