Mini Lop Rabbits

Here is a great video on mini lop care.

                                             Mini lops are very similar to the holland lop, but they
                                              are larger and less compact.


                                                                       Summary
                          Mini lops are a small rabbit in the lop-eared family. Their floppy ears will require extra maintenance, just like the holland lop. They are actually very similar to the holland lop- they are just less compact. Mini lops will generally get from five to seven pounds ( a little bigger than holland lops) and again, males tend to get bigger than females. These rabbits are also prone to obesity, so feeding the right food and exercising them is a must.  These rabbits are popular amongst families due to their size and content personalities. I enjoy this kind of rabbit and know they can make great companions.
                                                             Mini Lop or Holland Lop?
                        For some it can be quite difficult to tell if their rabbit is a mini lop or a holland lop. These rabbits can be quite similar but not impossible to identify. First of all, make sure you see your rabbits parents before you get it. Many breeders will say that your rabbit is a certain breed, when it is really just a mix of something else. If you have a mini lop he/she will get slightly bigger than a holland lop, maybe by a pound or two. Your mini lop will not be as compact as a holland lop. The face won't be as pushed in, the ears will be a little longer ( a little farther below the chin ), and the body and legs won't be as "muscular" looking. When you have a mini and a holland side by side it is actually not that hard to tell the breeds apart.
                                                            Feeding and Weight
                       Mini lops, just like holland lops, are prone to obesity. A steady diet of timothy hay based pellets and timothy hay will help to keep your rabbit in shape. Too many treats or food with treats in it (like dried fruit, etc. )will definitely lead to obesity, which will ultimately lead to death. Plenty of exercise is also necessary to keep your rabbit healthy ( at least three hours a day). It does not have to be vigorous, just letting him/her run around would be fine. A healthy mini lop should weigh between five and seven  pounds
                                                           Structure
                     The mini lop has a longer snout than a holland lop, but not as long as other rabbits. A mini's ears do not hang straight down from its head - they stick out a little. The ears end about mid- body (almost touching the ground). The body and legs are not as compact as a holland's ( most things are a little longer), although they are in the same size range.

                  I have experience with these rabbits and know they can make wonderful companions.

Holland Lop Rabbits

                                               The holland lop is basically a compact version
                                                of the  mini lop.
                                                                          Summary
           The holland lop is part of the lop-eared family. Their ears may not be flopped at first, but they should be flopped between six to nine weeks.  Their floppy ears require extra maintenance. You should check them daily to see if there is any wax build up or if there is any debris being picked up while your rabbit walks. These rabbits are very similar to the mini lop, another rabbit in the lop-eared family which I will also post about. Holland lops are basically a compact version of the mini lop. Hollands should grow from five to six pounds and males are generally bigger than the females. Holland lops and mini lops are both kinds of rabbits that are prone to obesity, so feeding your holland the right kind of food is a must. These rabbits are generally friendly and are popular amongst families.
                                                                      Ear Maintenance
       Due to their floppy ears, holland lops require much ear maintenance. Like  I said, you need to check for wax build up. This can be irritating to your rabbit and cause infection. As your rabbit walks it can pick up debris from the ground with its ears. This can also lead to infection and harm your lop. Check for cuts and clean the ears daily. Animals with floppy ears are also a target for ear mites, which cleaning will prevent.
                                                                   Feeding and Weight
      Holland lops are prone to obesity, so you need to feed them the right food. Obesity will ultimately lead to death if serious. A steady diet of timothy hay and timothy hay-based pellets is a start to keeping your rabbit a healthy weight. If you cannot provide at least three hours of exercise ( does not have to be vigorous, perhaps just letting it run around your room) make sure you have a large cage, because holland lops will get obese if they are not exercised enough. If you follow these steps, your holland should remain in shape ( around five to six pounds). If your rabbit is having weight problems you may want to take it to a veterinarian, who can recommend a special diet.
                                                                        Structure
     Like I said, a holland lop is basically a compact version of the mini lop. Hollands have compact, muscular bodies.  This breed should have a pushed in, compact face. The ears should not fall straight from the head, they should stick out a little. They should just end below the jaw line. Their necks should be short, and their bodies should be round and compact with thick, muscular legs.


     Hollands make very nice pets ( these are the kind I own, along with mini lops) and are one of the most popular breeds of rabbits for families.

Safe Fruits and Vegetables

Many plants consist of a naturally occurring chemical called alkaloids which are mild toxins used to protect themselves in the wild. The most commonly talked about with rabbits is oxalic acid which is harmless to humans and animals when consumed in small amounts. The amount of oxalic acid in a plant can vary due to the soil it grows in, its age, and the time of year. If your bunny has too much oxalic acid its kidneys can become damaged. These foods do not need to be cut completely from your bunny's diet, but they do need to be rationed, so mix it up!

Some safe vegetables (lower in oxalic acid) include:
Arugula
Carrots
Cucumber leaves
Endive
Frisee Lettuce
Kale
Romaine Lettuce
Zucchini

Some safe vegetables (higher in oxalic acid and should be rationed) include:
Parsley
Spinach

Vegetables shouldn't be given in great amounts. A six pound bunny should only eat from one and a half to two cups of vegetables a day. It is unhealthy for a rabbit to eat a lot of fruit, too. I recommend only one to two teaspoons a day at the most (depending on the size of your rabbit).

Some safe fruits include:
Apples (without the seeds)
Peaches
Bananas
Pears
Plums
Kiwis
Blueberries
Honey Dew Melons
Apricots

Rabbits should be introduced to vegetables and fruits around four months of age. When introducing new vegetables to your rabbit only give a little amount. Wait and see if this upsets your rabbit. If you see watery stool or sludge/ blood in urine stop feeding this to your rabbit and contact the veterinarian. If the urine is colored, it may be due to the pigment in the vegetables and is completely fine, if not normal. Not all rabbits are comfortable with certain vegetables. You need to design your rabbit's diet around its individual health issues.

If you would like more information on what fruits and vegetables your rabbit can eat, click here for a video.

Litter Box Training

When litter box training your rabbit you need to make sure you have the right kind of litter box.  As I mentioned in my previous article this depends on the size, kind, and sometimes age of your rabbit. For litter box training I recommend corner litter boxes. Well, once you have the litter box, you should put it in the corner the rabbit is mostly going to the bathroom in. This will encourage the rabbit to go in the litter box. In one corner of the litter box you should put some hay. This will also encourage the rabbit to use the letterbox, as it will eat the hay. If the rabbit is spending time in the litter box, it is bound to go to the bathroom. Eventually your rabbit will learn to follow the smell. Make sure to change the hay daily. If you see any loose droppings you should scoop those up and put them in the litter box. You should also take some of the bedding the rabbit has peed in and place it in the litter box. The rabbit will follow the scent, again,  and should learn to go in it. Your rabbit may not learn this at first, as mine did, it may take a week or two. You have to be patient. If your rabbit does not learn for a while, it is not your fault. My rabbits' mothers were litter box trained, which allowed her children to pick up on her habits. Keep in mind that your rabbit will still leave a few loose droppings in places after it is trained, but it will continue to urinate in the litter box.

Health Exam

It is good to go see a veterinarian about every six months. This is a good time for you to ask any questions about your rabbit's behavior, housing, etc.When you take your rabbit to the veterinarian for a physical you will be asked some questions.  It is good to prepare in advance, so here is a list of some questions the vet might ask:
- How long have you had your rabbit?
- How old is he/ she?
- Is your rabbit spayed/neutered?
-Does your rabbit live inside or outside?
- How much are you able to exercise your rabbit?
-(If there is a problem) When did you first notice it?
- Does your rabbit appear uncomfortable or in any kind of pain?
- What ( if anything) have you done to treat the problem?
-When did he/ she last eat or drink?
- Have there been any changes in diet, environment, etc?
-Does your rabbit have normal stool ( not constipation or diarrhea) ?
- Do you have any other animals at home?  How many and what kind? Are their problems similar to your rabbit's?
- What do you feed your rabbit ( including treats) ?
-What is your rabbit housed in and with how many?
-Has your rabbit been exposed to sick pets or chemicals?
- Where did you obtain your rabbit?
-(If your rabbit is female) Is your rabbit pregnant or when she produce her last litter?
- Add any other findings.

For information on giving your bunny your own health exam, click here.

Source: "Rabbits" in the Popular Critters Series

Bunny Body Language

     Bunnies cannot talk so they express how they feel through actions. For example, if a bunny is upset, sad, or there is something wrong, it cannot speak to you. Instead, your bunny may be lethargic or cower away from you. I cannot even begin to express how important it is to watch your rabbit for changes in behavior.
       Mabel, my first rabbit, died when she was eight weeks old. I didn't know how a rabbit was supposed to act at the time, so I didn't realize there was something wrong with her when she hid from me and would not let me pick her up. I thought she was just adjusting to her new and unusual home. When she began to grind her teeth, which is a sign the rabbit is in pain (of course I didn't know this at the time) I still didn't think there was anything wrong. I began to suspect there was a problem when I realized she wasn't eating. This is not good as it can be a sign of a pain in places such as the stomach or intestines. She was not pooping at all, so I thought she might have been constipated. Constipation can be deadly in a rabbit if left because the poisonous gas build-up in the intestines can affect the rest of the  body and ultimately lead to death. We decided to take her to the veterinarian in the morning but when we woke up she had already died. It turns out she had had a hole in her heart: a birth defect. You should always listen to your rabbit's body language and if you see any drastic changes, like I did, call your vet immediately.
       As a prey species rabbits will try to hide their illnesses, so it will not always be easy to tell if your rabbit has an illness. In order to ensure that your rabbit is healthy, it is a good idea to examine your bunny daily. Watch him while he eats, check the litter box/cage for average amounts of poop, and let your bunny run around. You know you bunny best, so only you can decide what is normal.
To list, the main things to watch out for are:

Tooth Grinding: Loud tooth grinding is a sign that a rabbit is in pain. Quieter tooth grinding is usually normal for a relaxed and happy bunny.

Wet Chin/ Drooling: This can be a sign of tooth problems in rabbits. Aside from the drooling, you may notice that your rabbit is unable to eat hard foods such as large vegetables. This should not happen if your rabbit is given a steady supply of chew toys, but if it does, contact your vet as you may need to schedule trimmings.

Ear Temperature: Rabbits ears are what regulate their body temperature. If you notice that your bunny's ears are extremely cold or very warm, this could indicate a change in body temperature/fever. If your bunny experiences this with other symptoms, contact your vet.

Labored Breathing, Runny Eyes Nose, Sneezing: These factors together could indicate allergies. Labored breathing could indicate some kind of respiratory infection (possibly from the type of bedding you are using). The runny eyes may be caused by blocked tear ducts. Contact your vet about all of these problems.

Head Tilt/ Loss of Balance: This can be caused by an inner ear infection known as wry neck. It is important to catch this early on so that it can be treated properly.

Lethargy/ Loss of Appetite: Once in a while every rabbit has an off day, but if your rabbit will not eat or participate in usual activities, you should contact your vet. However, only you know your rabbit, and only you can decide what is abnormal.

Fecal Matter: Your rabbit should be using his litter box regularly. The feces left in it should be round and normally colored. Abnormally shaped, colored, and amounts of feces can indicate an illness. If any blood is excreted by your rabbit, call your vet immediately. This could be a sign of something less serious, but it can also be a sign of cancer.

   Rabbits can use body language to express emotion:
  Angry/ Scared: Among other actions is thumping.  This is when a rabbit hits the ground with its hind legs. This usually means "Get away from me!", "Stop doing that," or "Leave me alone." Thumping can be a sign that your rabbit is afraid or angry. You can also look towards your rabbits ears if you think they are afraid. They will be pinned back, but not in a completely straight manner. If your bunny is extremely scared or in extreme pain he may scream.
    Happy/ Relaxed:  Rabbits will also jump in the air and kick there feet together. Informally, it is called a "binky." This is a sign of a very happy rabbit. My bunny Charlotte loves doing this all the time when she is let out of her cage. Other than binkies, a happy and relaxed rabbit should not have their ears pinned back, but should have them in a normal upright position. Happy rabbits will also wiggle their noses.
     Territorial: Territorial behavior can be demonstrated by rubbing of the chin.
     Curious: A curious rabbit will look around intently and may sometimes stand on his hind legs.
     I know this sounds cheesy, but honestly listen to your rabbit. You are in charge of taking care of him. Only you can decide what is normal and abnormal as far as behavior because each bun is an individual. Your bunny is always talking to you. Are you listening?

For more information, click here to watch a video on bunny body language.
Source(es): House Rabbit Society
 

Getting Ready for a New Rabbit

     Getting ready to adopt a rabbit can sometimes be hard, especially if it is your first. I am getting a new bunny Wednesday and I am in the process of getting ready.
     Choosing the Right Cage: To start off, you need a cage (If your rabbit will not be living in a cage, you can skip this section). As I mentioned before the size of your cage depends on your bunny's size, age, and how much you are willing to exercise it. At the least, your cage should be four times the length of your rabbit and he should be able to stand up on his hind legs without touching the ceiling. When you get it, check your cage for any sharp edges or wire that may hurt your rabbit and for any places it might be loose. Make sure the cage and lock can fasten securely so your rabbit cannot get out. Rabbit cages can have different bottoms, too. I use plastic bottomed cages for my rabbits as I feel it is less harsh on their feet. For a plastic bottom cage however, you will need bedding. I use Carefresh pet bedding for my bunnies. It is highly absorbent and is good at controlling odor. For bedding, stay clear of wood shavings pr sawdust. The dust that this produces can cause respiratory issues.
     If you are planning on getting a cage with a wire bottom, make sure there is somewhere soft for your bunny to rest its feet. If you are getting an outdoor hutch for your rabbit, the rabbit should be able to get in and out of the hutch without any trouble. It is important that the hutch you choose is made out of rabbit safe wood, so I would not recommend making your own.
      Your rabbit will need a lot of toys so it is not bored (check my post on "Rabbit Toys and Accessories").  Check the toys over to make sure there is nothing that can harm your bunny (sharp edges, etc.). They need interactive objects such as houses or ramps, too. Make sure not to overwhelm your bunny at first, so when introducing him to his new home do not put in an excessive amount of toys.
     Picking Food: In addition, rabbits need a high quality food. If you are not sure what kind to get I recommend you ask your local vet. I feed my rabbits Blue Seal brand pellets, but again it depends on your specific rabbit and what nutritional requirements it may have. It is usually safe to stick with the food that your rabbits breeder is feeding it. As far as hay goes, I have always fed my rabbits timothy hay as opposed to Alfalfa hay as it is lower in protein, calcium, and fat. Hay is an important source of fiber in rabbits (fresh and unlimited amounts should be given daily), so make sure to stock up on lots of it. In order to keep hay and food fresh, I would recommend on storing it in air tight plastic bins. Bunnies should be given a variety of fruits and vegetables, too. To view safe fruits and vegetables, click here.
     Litter Training: If you are thinking about litter training your rabbit you should get a litter box. Again the size, etc. may vary depending on your rabbit's size and age. It is easier to train your rabbit when it is younger, so jump on the task right away.  I have talked about litter in my recent articles but if you are not sure, again, asking your local veterinarian would be a good idea. Letting your bunny loose may not be a good idea if he is not litter trained. Are you prepared to clean up after it? Until your rabbit is litter trained, it is easier to keep him confined to a playpen when he is out of his cage. To learn more about litter training, click here.
    Picking a Room: One of the most important parts of preparing for a bunny is creating a safe environment to keep your rabbit in. Is the room you are keeping them in loud and noisy, or is it quiet? Loud noises can scare bunnies, so it is best to keep them in quieter rooms. Also, bunnies do not do good in temperatures above 82 degrees Fahrenheit because they do not have the mechanisms to deal effectively with high ambient temperatures. Your bunny's room should not get too hot. This is one of the dangers of owning an outdoor rabbit- drastic changes in temperature. A rabbit can not only get heat stroke, but hypothermia if it is too cold out.  A suitable place might be your basement (if it is not too cold), or for me, my bedroom.
     Bunny Proofing: If your bunny is going to be running around without supervision, your house should be bunny-proofed. To start off, make sure your rabbit  cannot get to any wires. This can obviously be very dangerous and even life-threatening. If wires and outlets are exposed and cannot be moved, you can purchase special covers made of plastic which a bunny is not able to penetrate (click here to shop for wire and outlet covers). Make sure your bunny will not be able to get to any other things it can chew on. Glue, paint, and other materials can hurt your bunny. You also need to make sure there are no holes or items your bunny can get stuck in or under. It may be safe to put down a mat made out of non toxic material. Items such as baskets should be removed, as the texture can easily be mistaken for some sort of hay. In the room which your bunny will be wandering, try and keep the floor clear of debris such as garbage and clothing. If you do not feel confident that your room is bunny proofed, an exercise pen is a great alternative to letting him roam free.
      If  you are getting an outdoor rabbit you need to check some things, too. Make sure there are no harmful chemicals on your lawn or around your house. Ask your neighbors this also. You need to make sure there are no harmful plants your rabbit can get to. Check your rabbit over for insect bites and stings on a regular basis as these can be deadly. Once you have all this in order, call your veterinarian and let him/her know you are getting a rabbit. Take your bunny in once you get it to get a physical and a de-worming (you should check even if he came "de-wormed").

For more information on getting ready for a new rabbit, click here to see a video.

Helpful Products:

Plastic Bottom Rabbit Cage

Wire Bottom Rabbit Cage

Exercise Pen

Litter Box

Oxbow Organic Rabbit Food

Kaytee Juvenile Rabbit Food (12 months and younger)

Katy Natural Timothy Hay

Rabbit Toys and Accessories

Rabbits love toys. They love to interact with things. A lack of toys can lead to boredom. Rabbits should only play with toys made especially for your rabbit.

Pet stores sell a variety of rabbit made toys safe for your bunny. Rabbits also love to make noise, so I recommend you get something with a bell, etc.  This should keep you bunny entertained.  Bunnies need a lot of things to chew on, too. Edible houses, rabbit-friendly chews and wood are all good options. I usually avoid chews with lots of dye in them (which a lot of the big name brands carry) and buy the more natural chews (I will post a link below). If a bunny does not have proper chew toys it will eventually chew other things (This can be very dangerous). Chewing also helps with teeth maintenance.  My rabbit also likes houses and interactive hay items, such as wheels or hanging baskets. They not only provide shelter, but encourage her to snack as well.
In addition, I try and buy my bunnies toys that will allow them to be at different levels within their cages. For example, I purchased my bunny a flexible bridge, made out of natural and animal friendly wood, to climb upon. This helps her stay active within her cage and keeps her entertained when I am not home. After all, that is the goal of toys. I would not recommend items like shelves due to the fact that bunnies do not like to be up extremely high. From experience, I have learned that they prefer a wider open cage with one level. This is why flexible items such as bridges are good (you can adjust the height!)
 Like I already mentioned, do not attempt to make your own toys unless you have thoroughly checked all the items you are using. Glue, dies, etc. can hurt your bunny. Some woods can be toxic, along with many glues if ingested.
You should also check on your bunny's toys daily to make sure that nothing has happened to them. If a toy has broken, small pieces may be ingested by and harm your bunny.

Some of my favorite products include:

Timothy Hay Tunnel

Woven Timothy Hay Mat

Willow Ball

Lounging Logs (Flexible Wooden Bridge)

Timothy Hay Animal Bungalow

Twig Chews

Hanging Nibble Kebab

They are bunny approved!

Rabbit Litter and Bedding

    When choosing rabbit litter and bedding it's important that you know what you're dealing with.
     What Not to Use (Litter): To start off, I do not recommend any kind of wood shavings. The dust that these produce can lead to respiratory problems. These litters are also hard to clean up. I am also against pine or cedar based litters. These litters contain oils that are bad for your rabbit, which may lead to problems involving his liver (even if your rabbit is not going to be touching the litter itself, it is still a good idea to stay clear of this).  Do not use basic clumping cat litter. If ingested, the litter clumps in the stomach and can lead to intestinal blockage. Lastly, I would try and avoid shredded paper/newspaper as it may tempt your rabbit to eat large quantities.
     What to Look for (Litter): When choosing litter, you want to find something that's absorbent, controls odor, and non-toxic. I recommend a pelleted recycled newspaper product. These are absorbent and not easy to nibble on. Before you purchase a pelleted litter, check to make sure that it is not pine or cedar based (wood based), but paper base as wood based pellets can break down into harmful dust. I also highly recommend Carefresh litter products. They are great at controlling odor, are non-toxic, and are very absorbent. This is the brand that I use. I find Carefresh products easier than the pelleted litters only because it it easier to clean up.
    What Not to Use (Bedding): Bedding generally follows the same rules as litter does. Stay clear of wood shavings, wood pellets, pine/cedar based litters, and newspaper. Some places may tell you that it is a good idea to line your cage with newspaper, but I do not recommend it. First of all, it is not absorbent. Second of all, even if you place other bedding on top of the newspaper, it may tempt your rabbit to eat it, which can be harmful if ingested in large amounts.
     What to Look for (Bedding): Again, bedding follows the same rules as litter. I recommend Carefresh for bedding. In addition to your bedding, you will also want to keep a fresh supply of hay on the ground of your cage in certain places (if not everywhere). This just encourages healthy eating behavior.
      Cleaning (Litter Box): You should be cleaning your rabbit's litter box every couple of days. To clean, dump out the used litter. Depending on the material, you can wash it out with unscented non-toxic soap, or refill it with new bedding. I mix in a few pieces of used bedding so that my bunny will recognize the scent of her litter box (she is still litter training). If you have a litter box that cannot be washed, I would switch it out every few months to keep it from becoming too dirty.
     Cleaning (Cage): I completely clean my rabbit's cage every two weeks. This includes a thorough wash down (with scent free non-toxic soap) and a complete change in bedding. At the end of every first week, I clean out and replace used bedding, but I do not thoroughly wash the cage.

Helpful Links:

Care fresh Natural Bedding

Recycled Paper Litter

Pet Safe Soap

Safe wood

If you are planning on making your own rabbit cage, toys, or just letting him roam around, it is a good idea to know what wood your rabbit can and cannot eat. Most untreated wood is okay, but some kinds of untreated wood can still be toxic. For example, cedar , even if untreated, contains harmful oils that can lead to kidney disease in rabbits.
Safe woods include:
Apple
Birch
Blackberry
Hazel
Hawthorn
Maple
Pear
Raspberry
Willow

• Juniper
• Poplar

Stay away from:

Apricot 

Birch

Blackwood

Cedar

Firs

Juniper

(Freshly Cut) Pine

Cherry

Spruce

Walnut

 If your rabbit's cage is made out of wood, check to make sure your rabbit cannot get to any glue or insolation, etc. Your rabbit should not be chewing on its cage that much. Be sure to provide a steady supply of toys in order to prevent chewing on things such as the cage.

Rabbit Homes

     When thinking about getting a rabbit, it is important to get the right cage.

     Size: A rabbit's home should be tall enough for it to stand up in on it's hind legs, and at least four to five times as long as your rabbit. If you are planning on including items such and huts and shelves, take into account the extra space you will need. Like I said, the size of your rabbit's cage depends on the size of your specific rabbit. It also varies based on how much you can take your rabbit out for exercise. Obviously, your rabbit's cage should be bigger if he is not able to get out as much. In all cases though, the bigger the cage the better.

    Types of Cages: Cages come in different shapes and sizes. You should pick a cage based on your bunny's specific needs.
 
     Plastic-Bottomed Cage: Cages with a plastic bottom are the most popular type of cage sold in pet stores. I personally use plastic bottomed cages because I find them gentle on my rabbits' feet. These cages generally have wire at the top, and have a detachable floor made out of solid, smooth plastic. You can fill cages like these up with bedding, providing a warm and comfortable environment. The only downside to these cages is that they are a little harder to clean than some other ones.

     Wire Bottomed Cage: Cages with a wire bottom are also sold in pet stores as a popular option. Instead of smooth plastic on the bottom, these cages have a wire grate and a detachable plastic tray underneath. Bedding is placed in the detachable tray. As long as your rabbit has a place to rest its feet, I have nothing against these cages. They are much cleaner and easier to change than the plastic bottomed cages. Again, it is what works best for you and your bunny personally.

     Outdoor Hutches: If your bunny is going to be living outside, you should purchase a hutch. This is an often times wooden cage that is meant to brave the elements of the outdoors. When looking at hutches, make sure that they are made of rabbit safe wood. Your bunny should have easy in and out access, too.

Final Check: Once you purchase your cage/hutch, make sure that your rabbit cannot get to any loose parts. Check for wires or wood that may be sticking out. A cage check should be performed routinely to ensure that your bunny stays healthy and happy.

Helpful Links:

Wire Bottomed Rabbit Cage

Plastic Bottomed Rabbit Cage

Outdoor Rabbit Hutch

Rabbit Food

     There are many brands of rabbit food, but a lot of them don't have the essential nutrients that rabbits need. When choosing food you need to read the label. Make sure the food is high in fiber- at least 16%. It should also be timothy, not alfalfa hay based. Even though alfalfa hay is higher in fiber (good for bunnies under 7 months) it can lead to urinary track problems due to the extra calcium and protein it contains. Bunnies, especially like the mini lop, who are prone to obesity should not eat food with treats such as dried fruits or vegetables in it. It is always to go the more natural route with plain timothy pellets.
     If you are planning on purchasing large amounts of food and hay at one time, it is a good idea to keep it in an air tight container. If you let your food sit in its original bag over extended periods of time, it can get moldy.
     Aside from pellets, a bunny's diet should consist of 80% timothy hay. This can be given plain, in the form of a toy, or through interactive objects as well. Hay is what keeps a rabbit's system going, so it is important supply him with fresh amounts constantly. Many pet stores sell products such as tunnels that are made out of hay. My bunny enjoys her hut (also made out of timothy hay).
     Vegetables are another important part of your rabbit's diet. Depending on your rabbit's size, no more than one to two cups should be given daily. If you would like a list of bunny safe vegetables, click here.  Fruit should be given sparingly- no more than one teaspoon a day at the most. To see a list of safe fruits, click here.
     If you notice any changes in your rabbits stool/urine after a new food, you should generally stop giving it. The reason I say generally is because some foods can cause discoloration in the urine. As long as there is no blood in the urine, discoloration is fine. However, if you notice diarrhea, blood in the stool, or runny feces, this could be a sign that something you are feeding your rabbit is not healthy.
     To give food, I do not recommend providing your rabbit with a plastic bowl or drinker.Plastic can scratch, which provides a home for bacteria to grow. I use glass/ceramic bowls and water bottles for my rabbits.

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Hi! I'm here to inform you about rabbits and other small pets. I will be posting daily, so make sure to come back and read!