Getting ready to adopt a rabbit can sometimes be hard, especially if it is your first. I am getting a new bunny Wednesday and I am in the process of getting ready.
Choosing the Right Cage: To start off, you need a cage (If your rabbit will not be living in a cage, you can skip this section). As I mentioned before the size of your cage depends on your bunny's size, age, and how much you are willing to exercise it. At the least, your cage should be four times the length of your rabbit and he should be able to stand up on his hind legs without touching the ceiling. When you get it, check your cage for any sharp edges or wire that may hurt your rabbit and for any places it might be loose. Make sure the cage and lock can fasten securely so your rabbit cannot get out. Rabbit cages can have different bottoms, too. I use plastic bottomed cages for my rabbits as I feel it is less harsh on their feet. For a plastic bottom cage however, you will need bedding. I use Carefresh pet bedding for my bunnies. It is highly absorbent and is good at controlling odor. For bedding, stay clear of wood shavings pr sawdust. The dust that this produces can cause respiratory issues.
If you are planning on getting a cage with a wire bottom, make sure there is somewhere soft for your bunny to rest its feet. If you are getting an outdoor hutch for your rabbit, the rabbit should be able to get in and out of the hutch without any trouble. It is important that the hutch you choose is made out of rabbit safe wood, so I would not recommend making your own.
Your rabbit will need a lot of toys so it is not bored (check my post on "Rabbit Toys and Accessories"). Check the toys over to make sure there is nothing that can harm your bunny (sharp edges, etc.). They need interactive objects such as houses or ramps, too. Make sure not to overwhelm your bunny at first, so when introducing him to his new home do not put in an excessive amount of toys.
Picking Food: In addition, rabbits need a high quality food. If you are not sure what kind to get I recommend you ask your local vet. I feed my rabbits Blue Seal brand pellets, but again it depends on your specific rabbit and what nutritional requirements it may have. It is usually safe to stick with the food that your rabbits breeder is feeding it. As far as hay goes, I have always fed my rabbits timothy hay as opposed to Alfalfa hay as it is lower in protein, calcium, and fat. Hay is an important source of fiber in rabbits (fresh and unlimited amounts should be given daily), so make sure to stock up on lots of it. In order to keep hay and food fresh, I would recommend on storing it in air tight plastic bins. Bunnies should be given a variety of fruits and vegetables, too. To view safe fruits and vegetables, click here.
Litter Training: If you are thinking about litter training your rabbit you should get a litter box. Again the size, etc. may vary depending on your rabbit's size and age. It is easier to train your rabbit when it is younger, so jump on the task right away. I have talked about litter in my recent articles but if you are not sure, again, asking your local veterinarian would be a good idea. Letting your bunny loose may not be a good idea if he is not litter trained. Are you prepared to clean up after it? Until your rabbit is litter trained, it is easier to keep him confined to a playpen when he is out of his cage. To learn more about litter training, click here.
Picking a Room: One of the most important parts of preparing for a bunny is creating a safe environment to keep your rabbit in. Is the room you are keeping them in loud and noisy, or is it quiet? Loud noises can scare bunnies, so it is best to keep them in quieter rooms. Also, bunnies do not do good in temperatures above 82 degrees Fahrenheit because they do not have the mechanisms to deal effectively with high ambient temperatures. Your bunny's room should not get too hot. This is one of the dangers of owning an outdoor rabbit- drastic changes in temperature. A rabbit can not only get heat stroke, but hypothermia if it is too cold out. A suitable place might be your basement (if it is not too cold), or for me, my bedroom.
Bunny Proofing: If your bunny is going to be running around without supervision, your house should be bunny-proofed. To start off, make sure your rabbit cannot get to any wires. This can obviously be very dangerous and even life-threatening. If wires and outlets are exposed and cannot be moved, you can purchase special covers made of plastic which a bunny is not able to penetrate (click here to shop for wire and outlet covers). Make sure your bunny will not be able to get to any other things it can chew on. Glue, paint, and other materials can hurt your bunny. You also need to make sure there are no holes or items your bunny can get stuck in or under. It may be safe to put down a mat made out of non toxic material. Items such as baskets should be removed, as the texture can easily be mistaken for some sort of hay. In the room which your bunny will be wandering, try and keep the floor clear of debris such as garbage and clothing. If you do not feel confident that your room is bunny proofed, an exercise pen is a great alternative to letting him roam free.
If you are getting an outdoor rabbit you need to check some things, too. Make sure there are no harmful chemicals on your lawn or around your house. Ask your neighbors this also. You need to make sure there are no harmful plants your rabbit can get to. Check your rabbit over for insect bites and stings on a regular basis as these can be deadly. Once you have all this in order, call your veterinarian and let him/her know you are getting a rabbit. Take your bunny in once you get it to get a physical and a de-worming (you should check even if he came "de-wormed").
For more information on getting ready for a new rabbit, click here to see a video.
Helpful Products:
Plastic Bottom Rabbit Cage
Wire Bottom Rabbit Cage
Exercise Pen
Litter Box
Oxbow Organic Rabbit Food
Kaytee Juvenile Rabbit Food (12 months and younger)
Katy Natural Timothy Hay
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